New LED fixtures continue to be introduced into the hobby. Specifically, there is an increase in the number of LED fixtures providing a more fuller color spectrum with multiple channels of control, allowing the user more freedom in custom tuning the light output. Continuing in the same vein as my previous LED lighting tests, this article presents data on light intensity and spread along with spectral plots for several new LED fixtures. Table 1 presents a list of the LED lighting fixtures reviewed in this article. Each of these was tested using the same set up as my previous reflector tests, using a 3'X3' grid with a spacing of 3" in the X,Y direction. The fixtures were centered on this grid, and PAR was measured as PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) in micromoles/m²/sec using a LICOR 1000 data logger and a LI-192SA underwater cosine corrected sensor calibrated for both air and water. The data logger was set to average 5 readings for each data collection point. The data was imported into Microsoft Excel for analysis and the data was plotted to display the light spread and intensity at various distances. 4 plots of the data with 2 plots at each distance were generated showing:

• A 3-D surface plot showing the actual PAR values recorded
• A contour plot viewing the surface from the top showing the distribution

The spectral distributions were measured using the Licor LI-1800 spectroradiometer. The spectral data was collected from the various LEDs and normalized such that integrated light output (spectral irradiance) between the wavelengths of 400-700 nm was 100 Watts/m². Data was collected at full power output for the individual channels of light control (eg. Blue, white) along with data with ALL LEDs on at full power. The data was normalized so that the full output was at 100 Watts/m² over the wavelength range 400-700 nm. The various LED color outputs were then scaled by the same scale factor to allow of determination of the contribution of the various LEDs to the full output. The results are plotted as a Spectral power distribution plot.

Table 1: LED Lighting Fixtures Tested

LED Fixture	Picture
AquaIllumination: AI-Vega
Maxspect Mazarra-P

The fixtures were tested for light spread and intensity at 24"and 30", unless otherwise noted. Power draw was measured with a Kill-A-Watt meter.

Maxspect Mazarra P-series

The Mazarra P series is a modular lighting system that is sold as a complete unit with LED modules, frame mounts, power supply, and controller. The modular design allows for the addition of additional LED modules, on a support frame that is adjustable to fit a wide range of aquarium sizes. The mounting of the LED modules allows for sliding the location of the LED modules as well as allowing the LED modules to be mounted at an angle. The ability to adjust angular orientation allows for better control in directing the light output. It addition to the flexibility in mounting, this lighting fixture also allows for a plug and play replacement of the LED bulbs and the optics. 100, 70 and 40 degree optics come standard with the modules. The controller provides 4 dimmable channels, and each controller can control 16 LED modules. The LEDs used in each module are Cree XLamp XM-L, Philips Luxeon Rebel, Epileds Dual-Core, and Cree XLamp RP-G LED chips. As per the specification, each LED module is rated as 60W (4-Cree XLamp XM-L 7000-8000K @ 1500mA, 4-Philips Luxeon Rebel 460-490nm @ 1000mA, 4-Philips Luxeon Rebel 440-460nm @ 1000mA, 1-Epileds Dual-Core 400-410nm @ 1000mA, 1-Epileds Dual-Core 410-420nm @ 1000mA, and 2-Cree XLamp XP-G 3000K @ 1000mA).

AquaIllumination AI - VEGA Color

The AI-Vega is the next generation LED light fixtures from Aqua Illumination. Compared to their previous products, popular AI-Sol and Sol-Blue, the AI Vega offers additional LED colors and 6 channels of control. Each LED fixture comprises the following LEDs:

• 4-Cree XM-L Cool White
• 4 - Cree XP-E Royal Blue
• 4 - Cree XP-E Blue
• 4 - OSRAM OSLON Deep Blue
• 2 - Cree XP-E Green
• 2 - OSRAM OSLON Deep Red

A wireless controller allows for infinite control of the 6 lighting channels to create a wide range of color combinations, along with programing in special effects such as clouds and lightning.

Conclusions

As LED lighting moves further into the mainstream, there is new effort being made to provide a fuller spectrum light that can be tuned by the aquarist to satisfy both the demands of the corals as well as the visual pleasure of the aquarist. Hopefully this data will help the aquarist make an informed choice on what to expect from the individual LED fixtures and how best to utilize them to achieve the desired coverage and light intensity.

My name is Paul Bruns and I live in Bridgewater Massachussetts. It is quite an honor to have my aquarium featured here in Advanced Aquarist. I have been keeping aquaria in one form or another for over 40 years so it's a thrill for me to be asked to display my reef here. Since its setup almost eight years ago there have been many changes to my system and reef . In this write up I will try to explain what I have done and why. I also hope to convey the wonder and great pleasure I experience with this hobby.

Some Background

My reefkeeping philosophy can be summed up as having two priorities. First and foremost is the welfare and health of the animals under my care. I would do almost anything for them. Secondly, I like to pay a lot of attention to the aesthetics, beauty and presentation of the aquarium to make the viewing experience the best I can make it. I know that the main focus should ultimately be about what is inside the tank. However, I think the appearance of the entire setup and the room it is located in can have a big impact on the viewer. As the aquarium is in the middle of my home I think this is very important. My present system is the product of what I learned from the many that came before it. I used that experience to create what I think is a unique viewing experience of a beautiful reef in an unconventional room.

The Tank

The tank itself is 427 gallons. It is eurobraced acrylic with a center overflow made by Invisions Inc. The tank measures 84" x 36" x 29". The center overflow allows for unobstructed viewing from all angles of the room.

Building the stand was a challenge because I generally dislike the look of all conventional aquarium stands. I wanted something that I could see through and would not appear boxy. The stand is made of 4 columns of cinderblock topped with 3 steel I beams and 3/4" plywood. The columns and sides were tiled over with the same tile used for the floor of the room. This helps the stand fade from view instead of standing out. I have had guests jump with shock when one of my dogs comes walking out from under the stand to say hello. All the plumbing and electrical are routed through the legs of the stand to the sump in the basement below.

Filtration

I don't think there is any kind of aquarium filtration method I haven't tried or used. All are useful and have their applications. I have found that no single method alone of nutrient control is sufficient to handle the bioload of my reef. I have gone through a progression of methodologies over the past eight years. I used ozone for a while but found keeping the air dry for it problematic. I had a remote deep sand bed when I originally set up the system. At around the second year nitrates began to rise and I realized this method of nitrate control just wasn't working anymore. I switched to vodka dosing and bought a sulfur denitrator. That worked, but what a pain! Daily additions of vodka were tedious. The reactor worked well but I didn't like the adjustments I had to make to it as nitrate levels of the water fluctuated.

I also had a persistent problem with phosphates. I used GFO and dripped lanthanum chloride into filter socks and a diatom filter. GFO was expensive and often caused STN on my acros when I changed them. Lanthanum dosing was a real chore. Through a lot of experimentation and lots of trial and error I eventually found success. A combination of a good skimmer, carbon dosing (biopellets) and an Algae Turf Scrubber keeps the nutrient levels of my water very low. I can feed large amounts of food without worry. The skimmer is a Bubble King 250 Internal. The biopellets tumble in a NextReef reactor. The algae Turf Scrubber I made myself.

Lighting

Originally I had two Maristar fixtures with four 250 watt halides and four 39 watt T5s. I also used some 12" Finnex T5 fixtures to try and light up some of the darker areas of the tank. This lighting configuration was used for 6 years. It was not entirely successful as there were dimly lit areas of the tank and all those fixtures hanging above looked pretty poor. In 2011 I upgraded the lighting to 12 Aqua Illuminations Sol Blues. Since that time I have added 2 more. The difference has been dramatic for my corals and the overall look of the tank and room were remarkably enhanced. I have some advise for anyone that is thinking of changing to LED lighting. Measure the intensity of your present system with a par meter or lux meter. I used a lux meter. When you put up your LEDs, match that intensity as best you can and slowly change from there.

Circulation

There are five Tunze Stream Pumps. Three are attached to Vertex Moceans that sweep back and forth across areas that are mostly populated with SPS. Three others are in fixed positions. All are mounted on the center overflow. The return pump is a Reeflow Goby Gold and is located with the sump in the basement.

Temperature control

Believe it or not, cooling has never been a big issue, even in a sunroom. When the temperature of the water reaches 80.0F, a fan on the wall adjacent to the tank blows air across the surface of the water. Even with the air temp of the room at 86F, the tank temp has not exceeded 80.2F. With the new AI lighting, the room stays a lot cooler and the AC runs a lot less. There are two 500watt titanium heaters in the sump for heating. In the winter the sump and everything I can reach are insulated.

Controllers

I have an Apex Lite controller but this is relatively new and is not completely configured. It presently controls the heaters, the cooling fan, the lights on the ATS and some air pumps. I will get an e-mail and text message if the power fails or if the pH or temperature go out of range. The specific gravity and top- off are controlled by the SeaVisions Dialyseas, which is described next.

Maintenance

I thought a lot about maintenance when I was planning this tank. I ended up buying a Dialyseas made by Seavisons. I was very tired of doing water changes and I knew a tank of this size would need sizable and frequent ones. The Dialyseas does all the water changes for me. I just add the salt of my choice to the brine bucket. I can set how much water I want changed on a daily basis. Right now I have it set low, only 1.5 gallons a day. The Dialyseas also makes all the RO/DI water I need and monitors the specific gravity with a conductivity meter. It makes adjustments when needed and is amazingly stable and accurate. Here is a link to a vid that shows the basement sump and equipment.

The algae turf scrubber is scraped once weekly, usually on the weekend. I get a large dinner-plate full of algae every week. I replace 2 cups of carbon in the carbon reactor (an old converted calcium reactor) every third week.

I add one large spoonful of calcium hydroxide to the kalk stirrer every night. I clean the acrylic almost every day, but that is because I have OCD when it comes to my tank. The Tunze powerheads get bleached and vinegar dipped when needed.

Calcium and Alkalinity

I utilize both a calcium reactor and a kalk stirrer to keep up with the demand. The calcium reactor is made by Schuran and the kalk reactor by Aqua Medic. A Spectrapure LitreMeter pulls RO/DI water through the kalk reactor for all top-off.

Additives

Lugols Iodine, 8 drops daily.

Feeding

A sheet of nori and a cube of cyclops are fed in the moring while I have my coffee. At 10 AM, 5PM and 8PM an automated feeder dispenses various pelletized dry foods. Around 2 PM I feed 10 cubes of frozen mysis and one cube of cyclops.

Livestock

Fish

Anthias

• 2 Bartlets
• 2 Squarespot
• 3 Dispar
• 6 Evansi

Pseudochromis

• 1 Royal Dottyback

Cardinalfish

• 1 Bluestreak Cardinalfish
• 1 Pajama Cardinalfish
• 2 Banggai Cardinalfish (pair)

Butterflyfish

• 1 Copperbanded Butterfly

Angelfish

• 3 Coral Beauty (Centropyge bispinosa)
• 1 Lemarcks Angelfish (Genicanthus lamarck)

Damselfish/Clownfish

• 1 Ocellaris Anemonefish (Amphiprion ocellaris)
• 5 Pink Skunk Anemonefish (Amphiprion perideraion)
• 6 Blue Green Chromis (Chromis viridis)
• 2 Lemon Damselfish (Pomecentrus moluccensis)
• 1 Allen's Damselfish (Pomacentrus alleni)

Wrasses

• 1 Redfinn Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubripinnis)
• 1 Golden Wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus)
• 1 Neon Wrasse ( Halichoeres melanurus)
• 1 Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon meleagris)
• 1 Carpenters Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus carpenteri)
• 1 Dusky Wrasse (Halichoeres marginatus)

Blennies

• 1 Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas)

Dragonets

• 2 Green Mandarinfish (Synchiropus splendidus)

Gobies

• Pair Longfinned or Diamondback Sleeper Goby

Rabbitfish

• 1 Foxface Rabbitfish (Siganus unimaculatus)

Triggerfish

• 1 pair of Bluethroat Triggerfish ( Xanthichthys auromarginatus)

 

Both my Rabbitfish and my Hippo Tang lost parts of their fins on their introduction to the tank. I do not know what the cause was, and neither fish regained what was lost. The Hippo Tang is the Edward Scissorhands of the reef and looks like he went through a blender. He is very healthy though and continues to grow. My Bluethroat Triggerfish are my favorite and exhibit the most personality. The male follows me around the room and I swear he's smiling at me.

Corals

I'm not going to attempt to list all the corals present in my tank. Suffice it to say that it is a mixed reef with softies, gorgonians, and many SPS. Reefers who keep careful track of all the corals they place in their systems have my due admiration. Someday I will get around to cataloging them all. Right now I can say that I try to achieve the most diversity that I can. That is the goal and my challenge.

Inverts

• 1 large S. gigantea anemone
• 1 green curly cue anemone
• 1 golden tear-drop T.maxima clam
• 2 T.crocea clams
• 1 very large black sea cucumber
• Various shrimps, crabs and snails

 

 

Issues

No reef tank endeavor would be complete without experiencing some of the common problems we all suffer through. I think I have had my fair share of all the plagues that are common to this hobby. Everything from cyano to red bugs, I have met them all. I have had AEFW present in the main display since at least 2008 and probably well before that. I control them now with wrasses and a turkey baster. I cannot detect any damage to my corals, but I'm sure there would be if I let their populations increase. The worst effect of their presence is that I do not give out or sell any acro frags.

Another problem is that I find that the reef gets crowded very fast. I love to buy corals and I want to have as much diversity as I can manage. Also of course everything grows. The challenge is to arrange everything in such a way so that the reef doesn't look like a big block. I am continuously moving things around and adjusting the aquascape. Reefkeeping is very much like gardening. There is lots of pruning and transplanting. As a result there is usually an area somewhere in the reef where things look new with young frags and recently acquired corals. I have documented the many transformations with videos on YouTube. You can see these videos here:

http://www.youtube.com/user/reefkeeper2/videos?flow=grid&view=0

Water Parameters

I have listed the water parameters but the only testing I do on a regular basis is for alkalinity and iodine.

• Temperature: 78.4-80.0F
• pH: 7.9-8.3
• Specific Gravity: 1.025
• Ammonia: non-detectable
• Nitrite: non-detectable
• Nitrate: non-detectable
• Phosphate: 0.01- 0.03ppm
• Calcium: 450ppm
• KH: 8.2
• Magnesium: 1500ppm

 

Equipment list

• Skimmer: Bubble King 250 Internal
• Pumps: Return pump is a Reeflow Goby Gold. Circulation pumps are Tunze Streams
• Heaters: 2 Finnex 500 watt heaters
• Calcium Reactor: Schuran Calcium Reactor
• Kalk Stirrer: Aqua Medic Kalk Stirrer
• Auto Feeder: Eheim Auto Fish Feeder for pelletized foods
• Control System: Seavisions Dialyseas for water changes and control of specific gravity. Apex controller is used for heating, cooling, lighting of the ATS and alarms.
• Lights: 14 Aqua Illuminations Sol Blues
• Top off: Liter Meter III
• RO Unit: Dialyseas
• Other: Next Reef Reactors for biopellets

 

Conclusion

I really love this hobby. There are so many different facets to it that keep you engaged and interested. If you are a tech geek, a biologist, chemist, a photographer or just someone that appreciates great natural beauty, there is something here for you. I never seem to tire of it. I would like to thank Leonard Ho for asking me to display my aquarium here. I would also like to thank Greg Thevenin for his tremendous help with the photography, and all of my friends and fellow reefers of the Boston Reefers Society who have made this hobby even more enjoyable for me.

 

---

Here is a small sampling of the 100+ photos of Paul Bruns' Feature Aquarium photo album.  Click on the "view FEATURE AQUARIUM photo album" link below to see all the photos.

Few examples of symbiosis in the whole natural world show such a wonderful balance between giving and receiving like the mutual relationship existing between Shrimp-Gobies and their fellows Alpheid Shrimps.

Shrimp-Gobies are little fish widespread along tropical and sub-tropical seas worldwide, especially in sandy or rubble areas, where they share their 'house' (a burrow) with small prawns, commonly called snapping-shrimps.

It is quite common to observe these gobies watching the burrow entrance, in strict physical contact with the shrimp's antenna, while he approaches the surface to eliminate the material excavated from the burrow. Shrimp's eyes, used to the burrow's darkness, are almost blind out of the hole and the he could be a too-easy prey without the protection and the continuous surveillance of the goby. On the other hand, the goby is not able to dig a hole by itself, and if a burrow not well maintained would collapse in a very short time. When a danger approaches, the goby first signals it to the shrimp by flippering the caudal fin. If the danger gets worst, the goby turns rapidly escaping inside the burrow.

It has been quite a debate if we should consider the goby just like a "watchman" for the shrimp, or on the contrary the shrimp is barely a housekeeper for the goby. The truth is that both of them have built a very complex and stable relationship, where right and duties of the pair are well established and balanced: even if sometimes it's possible to observe a shrimp without his goby (or vice versa, that's it is called "facultative association", at least in some species), it's normally a temporary situation. The couple pairing is necessary for the survival of both, as life is hard alone. Natural enemies like Lizardfish, Jackfish, Sandperches and some other predators like snake eels have been observed sometimes successfully hunting Shrimp-Gobies.

It's a chicken-and-egg debate if is the goby first to find the shrimp, or the shrimp that finds the goby: the only sure thing is that they use different methods. Apparently gobies find their partners mainly using their visual ability, while chemical signals seem to have a prevalent role from the shrimp's point of view: it seems reasonable considering the poor visual ability of the little crustacean. This relationship can begin shortly after the goby settles from planktonic life, when the little fish is almost 1 cm long. When the sexual maturity is reached, normally a pair male-female of gobies shares the same burrow together with a pair of shrimps.

When the pair it's formed, the process of building the burrow starts and, depending on the substrate and on the species of shrimp, could be short and branching, or long and deep, as it has been observed sometimes in some aquariums where the shrimp decided to build his house nearby to the glass.

The activity of the pair during the day is quite intense: the shrimp keep removing material from the burrow, enlarging the house and looking for food. The goby, aside from his watchman duties, is busy in catching his food (mainly zooplankton). Most gobies just lay down on the sand waiting, while some others hover on the top of the hole. The pair activity normally is reduced in the late afternoon, and in some cases during the night the shrimp closes the burrow entrance as a further protection against night predators.

Watchman Goby

More than 130 different goby species belonging to almost 20 genera are officially already described, but probably many other are still waiting to be discovered, especially in the Coral Triangle area (Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines an Papua New Guinea). The symbiosis has been observed with up to 30 different species of pistol-shrimps, mainly of the genus Alpheus.

The genus Amblyeleotris includes almost 40 different species, usually are the largest Shrimp-Gobies in the wild, growing up to 20 cm length in the bigger species, and with more fin rays than other genera. Even Cryptocentrus is a successful genus and it's distinguishable for the bigger head and some other anatomical features. Ctenogobiops and Vanderhorstia are quite diffused all around tropical Indo-Pacific waters, but few species have been official described until now. One genus particularly loved by aquarists, Stonogobiops, includes few species all with swim bladder that allows them to hover motionless few centimeters on the top of the burrow entrance.

Shrimpgobies in the wild feed on zooplankton mainly. Quite often a couple of gobies inhabits the same burrow, where the female lays the eggs. They are territorial fish even if the territory is not very large and in the same area it's possible to find several couples. They are not very good swimmer of course, but can be very fast.

House-maid Shrimp

All the shrimps living in association with a goby belong to the Alpheidae family (genera Alpheus or Synalpheus). They are even called "Snapping Shrimps" or "Pistol Shrimps" for their ability to produce a loud snapping sound using their larger claw. Even if they are so small, they are one of the major sources of underwater noise.

The production of this noise is one of the most amazing performances of the animal world: by snapping their claw they produce a small cavitation bubble that moves approximately 100 km/h generating a huge acoustic pressure. This bubble, producing almost 220 decibels, can also kill small fish or other animals and preys. A human eardrum ruptures a 150, just to give an idea of the power. And, unique case in the animal world, the bubble produces a small luminescence (not visible to the naked eye), called "sonoluminescence", provoked by the bubble's superficial temperature. Due the importance of the bigger claw in a snapping shrimp's life, in the case they lost it, the second claw grows to replace the lose one, and the missing limb will regenerate in a smaller claw. This amazing phenomenon is called "claw symmetry" and it has been documented only once in nature.

Snapping shrimps are socially monogamous and territorial, with females performing all parental care. Anyway, male and female partners share other duties like territorial defense, burrow construction, and foraging duties by returning food to the burrow, where both partners consume it.

 

---

Biography

Francesco Ricciardi is a PhD in Marine Biology, with specialization on the impact of pollution on marine life, aquatic biodiversity and marine tropical ecology, including some studies on symbiosis ecology. Underwater Photographer and Scuba Instructor since more than 10 years, he's actually located in the island of Bali (Indonesia).