Editor's Note: All of the photos in this article can be viewed
in this Photo
Gallery.
As a kid my room
was filled with aquarium containing turtles, salamanders, frogs,
fish and just about anything else I could find. Since then I've
rarely been without an aquarium of some kind, and set up my
first reef in 1991. That was a 29 gallon Berlin system featuring
some hilarious DIY equipment, but I eventually went on to a
65 where I accomplished some degree of success. I set up the
current 120 in October of 2002, which makes it two and a half
years old.
Overview
The aquarium is
a glass Oceanic 120, 48x24x24 inches. The sump is located in
my basement, both to reduce mechanical noises and to keep temperatures
cooler in the summer. Other than one or two LPS specimens, all
corals were grown from small frags. The sump is a 75 gallon
stock tank with a plexiglass cover. I try to keep systems as
simple as possible, and the set-up features little automation.
The
fishroom when it was first set up in 2002.
The other tanks are a 150 and a 37 housing dart frogs.
The 37 has since been replaced by a 58 predator tank.
Circulation
The return pump
is a large Sequence and should have been able to provide a fair
amount of the circulation. Unfortunately, a mix up with the
retailer ended up with the tank having only one standard sized
drain, rather than the two oversized drains I originally specified.
So, the Sequence is dialed way back and I use various supplementary
devices to get the polyps blowing. Currently, it's one Tunze
Stream, one Mak 4 on a closed loop with a ¾ Sea-Swirl, one Seio,
and one Mag7 powerhead.
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Filtration
I'm a proponent
of heavy skimming, and believe many of the recommendations to
feed corals have been overstated. In the past my reefs have
been Adey-inspired naturalistic set-ups featuring such things
as refugia, low-skimming, and macro-algae exports. I still see
benefits there, but am leaning towards a more heavy reliance
on skimming.
I've been through
a few changes with the skimming, but right now I'm using a counter-current
skimmer based on the 'Snailman' design. The air pump is a Whitewater
LT15, hooked up to a 6" fine-pore air diffuser from Aquatic
EcoSystems. These airstones are very long-lasting, which makes
the whole air-driven approach much more palatable. The skimmer
body is only a four-inch pipe, and when I turned the air pump
on for the first time it shot most of the water right out of
the skimmer! I'm in the process of upgrading it to a 6 inch
pvc pipe, but until then a ball valve is restricting the air
flow.
Carbon is used on
an irregular basis, usually placed in the overflow. Also the
sump contains chaetomorpha, just a small amount at present.
I'm not running any particulate filter at the moment, but I
think it's a good idea and I may add one in the future.
Originally, the
sump had about 5 inches of Southdown sand, and the display tank
2 to 3 inches. I was very skeptical of the current trend to
remove sand beds at first, and it seemed that people were blaming
every possible problem on them. Eventually however, I came around
to that point of view. I figure at the very least that the low-flow
sump had to be a settling area, so I siphoned the sand out over
the course of a few weeks during water changes. I've siphoned
some, but not all out of the display tank so far. The system
is experiencing a slight increase in algal growth at the moment,
probably due to the sand bed disturbances. The tank always has
had minor algae issues, and I can't help but wonder if that
has anything to do with something I did when I first set the
tank up. I purchased a pound of detritus from a live rock dealer's
curing tank and buried it in my sand bed. It was definitely
full of critters, but probably was a phosphate bomb as well!
Lighting
Two 250W DE 10K
Ushio halides in Sunlight Supply fixtures. These are great fixtures
and I've been very happy with them. I have a single 400W mogul
Radium between the two to supply some blue to the scene. This
works fine, but I probably would like to eventually replace
it with actinic VHO or T5 flourescents, as I prefer that look..
The sump is illuminated opposite the display tank, with incandescent
lighting. The canopy is DIY, and is ventilated with a 4"
fan, open back, and slat top.
Calcium Supplementation
My calcium tends
to measure on the low side, but since I get good coral coral
growth I don't worry about it too much. It does seem though,
that if the alkalinity is low for a while the growth appears
to slow noticably. I'm using a MRC calcium reactor, dose kalk
with a Liter-meter, and use 2-part additives occasionally.
Revenge! Encrusting
Montipora growing over Zoanthids
Corals
All came from frags,
most traded or purchased online. Some of the more noteworthy
ones are:
Flourescent
green polyp Sarcophytons - these are my favorites.
The largest is perhaps 4 inches across now. Slow growing.
Lots
of Ricordea florida, several colors
Encrusting Montiporas:
Montipora
danae - probably not the correct name, but I'll perpetuate
this one a bit longer. Bright blue with red polyps
Yellow
with purple polyps
Bright
pink solid
Acropora millepora
(or prostrata) nice and hairy
Hot pink with yellow
tips
Brown with purple
tips
Multicolor pinks
and blues
Green with yellow
tips
Blue (ORA)
Plating Montiporas
Montipora hispida
- cool ochre color with mint green polyps; forms crazy shapes,
ripply plates with upright pillars
Green with purple
rim
Purple with purple
polyps
Bright orange
Yellow plating
porites - not a monti but grows in similar flat plates
Other Acros:
California blue tortuosa (ORA)
Oregon blue tortuosa - sloooow growing but nice color.
Green slimer - great coral, hardy, grows fast and looks awesome
Purple staghorn - nice big fluffy polyps, fast growing
Hairy stag with ice blue tips - another fast grower, ORA I
think
Growth sequence:
October 2003
April 2005
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Fish
Half-black Mimic
Tang - Acanthurus pyroferus - This less commonly seen
version mimics the Pearlscale or Half-black Angelfish Centropyge
vroliki. Mine is transitioning to adult coloration; having lost
the "pearlescent" quality and developing the tail extensions
with the orange trim. Great fish!
Comet - Calloplesiops
altivelis - I think this is one of the most beautiful fish,
but I wish it would come out a little more! It is so shy to
come out for feeding, and so slow to eat that I don't know how
it gets enough. It seems to be doing well though. The one thing
sure to draw it out is live grass shrimp, and its hunting behaviors
are very cool. It will fan out its fins and arch its body, presumably
to block escape routes for the prey. It seems to miss quite
often, at least compared to our fuzzy dwarf lion, who never
does.
Fathead (Sunburst)
Anthias - Serranocirrhitus latus - The husbandry recommendations
on this species usually says that it doesn't like bright light;
but mine happily stays out in the open in the brightest areas.
Slightly aggressive with other planktivores, but does no damage.
The one problem I have had with this fish is color fading. I
have fed it food containing natural coloring agents, and food
supplemented with Canthaxanthin, but it still doesn't have it's
original brightness.
Black-capped Basslet
- Gramma melacara - I could not feed the tank for a week
and I'm sure this fellow would still be fat like a pig. I suspect
he is responsible for the absence of bristleworms in the tank.
Threadfin Cardinal
- Apogon leptacanthus - Nice schooling fish. One of them
always had a mouthful of eggs every few weeks, but one of the
three disappeared mysteriously recently and there have been
no eggs since.
White-ray Shrimp
Goby - Stonogobiops yasha - A beautiful fish, but this
fellow insists on surfing my overflow to the basement sump.
Having made three trips down there, I've decided he can stay!
Probably better for a nano situation.
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Janitors
I have a variety
of snail species, but feel that turbos do the best job. They
are the only ones that can be counted on to eat hair as well
as film algae. I also have a few emerald crabs, although I'm
not sure how effective they are. I suspect they may be keeping
the bubble algae in check.
Things I would
change, or do differently next time:
Bigger- I
hope to upgrade to a larger tank, both to expand my fish choices
and to give the corals a bigger space to grow out in. I have
too many cramped colonies at the moment.
Circulation-
I'm not sure if I will upgrade for this tank or wait, but I
would like to do away with the numerous internal devices. I
prefer the laminar flow created when all the powerheads are
working together rather than turbulence. I would like a dual
manifold driven by a motorized ball valve or similar device,
in which all the outlets would direct flow clockwise for a short
interval (just a couple of minutes) and then the valve would
redirect flow counterclockwise for the same duration. I think
this could simulate surge nicely and you would get a massive
flow from all the devices working together.
Frag tank
- I don't like having all those frags falling all over the place,
and would like a separate tank to grow them out in.
Here is the
Comet, the way he usually shows himself. Possibly mimicing
a morays head.
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