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Brief overview: The data
presented here is a distillation of a talk I gave in Chicago at the
International Marine Aquarium Conference (IMAC) in May 2003. The
data was collected from various systems over about six months’
time. All data was collected using an Apogee Instruments Quantum
Meter, Model No. QMSW-SS. The intensities are compared to computed
values of intensity at depth using Jerlov’s light transmission
tables.
For years, aquarists have
used a simple measure of Watts per gallon as a means of comparing
lighting levels. For as long as I can recall, people have argued
against its use, yet there exists other simple methods for comparing
lighting levels between tanks. Various authors have tried tackling
this subject, covering light from a wide variety of angles, from
different bulbs, to different ballasts, to different reflectors. Yet
no one has characterized light fields in actual aquariums which is
what I aimed to change.
The Apogee meter measures
PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation), a range of light from 400
to 700 nanometers where photosynthesis takes place. The units are
micro-Einsteins per meter squared. All sensors that measure this
range suffer from some degree of mis-measurement. The ‘gold
standard’ sensor is made by a company called LiCor. (http://env.licor.com/Products/Sensors/li192sa.htm)
The price for the sensor alone is $550. For the entire system, the
price runs in excess of $2000. The important thing is to look at the
sensor’s sensitivity to light.
Figure of Apogee response
curve - http://www.apogee-inst.com/bqm_spec.htm#sensor
Figure of LiCor response
curve.- http://env.licor.com/Products/Sensors/quachart.gif
Figure of Lux response
curve - http://env.licor.com/Products/Sensors/phochart.gif
As you can see, the LiCor
meter does not match PAR perfectly, but the fit is better than the
Apogee. Both sensors will be far better than the response curve of a
lux meter. The Apogee will tend to undermeasure the blue spectrum of
the bulb somewhat vis a vis the LiCor. Dana Riddle, who has both
sensors and has used them quite a bit, has told me that the readings
he gets from both units coincide quite well. With a price tag of
roughly $300, the Apogee Quantum meter was within my price range,
while at $2,000 plus, the LiCor was not.
In nature, sunlight
intensity can be quite intense. Measurements in excess of 2000-2200 mE/m2
(Micro-Einsteins per square meter) have been recorded at noon in the
tropical sun.
Here are two readings taken
using the Apogee meter:
January 2003, Zambales,
Philippines:
- 900
mE/m2
at 7am.
- 1200
mE/m2
at 9am
March 2003, Indiana
Out of curiosity, I
decided to measure the lighting levels within the greenhouse at
Harbor Aquatics during a club field trip back in March 2003.
Outside, the light levels were 1330 mE/m2.
Inside the greenhouse, the light levels were substantially reduced
due to the glass chosen. On the edge of the square tank, light
intensity measured 550 mE/m2.
Just under the water’s surface, it was 458 mE/m2.
In the large rock
tanks, light levels were still at 550. Just below the surface, we
saw roughly 460 mE/m2.
On the bottom of the tank, under approximately 15” of water, the
light levels were still a pretty substantial 354 mE/m2.
Here is a picture of
Harbor’s greenhouse setup for those not familiar with it:
Moving to actual tank
lighting setup:
Joy Meadows, owner of
Harbor Aquatics, has a nice SPS tank setup housing all of her
Acropora colonies. The tank is lit with 400W Metal Halide bulbs. She
runs two different bulbs, the Iwasakis and Radiums. The Iwasaki
bulbs win, hands down with 892 vs. 578 mE/m2.
That is a difference of over 150%!
Tank setup #1
Doug Lehman’s 75 gallon
system
June 2002
System: 4 x 96W Compact FL
bulbs.
Bulbs 5.5” off the water.
Reflector: Standard flat
mirrored retrofit kit

After lighting upgrade
Doug Lehman’s 75 gallon
system
August 2002
System: 2 x 175W bulbs,
with 2 x 110W VHO Actinics.
Bulbs 5.5” off the water.
Reflector: Standard flat
mirrored retrofit kit

Tank setup #2
Doug Lehman’s 125 gallon
system
June 2002
System: 6 x 55W CF tubes.
Consists of 10,000K, 6,700K and ‘Actinic’.
Bulbs 5.5” off the water.
Reflector: Standard flat
mirrored retrofit kit

Tank setup #3
Adam Schneider’s
75 gallon system
2 x 110W VHO with single
250W MH
At the time, I believe the
reflector consisted of aluminum foil…


Tank setup #4
Howard Allan’s 120 gallon
tank.
Lighting: 2 x 400W Ushio
bulbs with 3 x 110W VHO actinics.
Brightest tank of any I
measured.
Under the MH bulbs, just
above the water surface, PAR was 1200+.

LED-lit nano tank at IMAC
Tullio Dell Aquilla had a
nano tank set up in his room at the IMAC conference.
The tank was lit by just 3
LEDs installed in a hood meant for a compact fluorescent tube. The
reflector surface was flat, meaning that the LED essentially acted
as a ‘bare bulb’ setup. With proper reflectors, these numbers
should go up quite a bit. Total wattage for these three bulbs: 13
Watts


Tullio did have some LED
bulbs installed in reflectors as well:
| Bulb
color
|
1
inch from unit
|
6.5”
from unit
|
| White
|
270
mE/m2
|
11-12
mE/m2
|
| Blue
|
250
mE/m2
|
9
mE/m2
|
IMAC 120 gallon tank
Sunlight Supply’s 120
gallon tank
Lighting: Two 250W bulbs,
one a Mogul Ushio 10K and the other a double-ended Ushio 10K.
The double-ended bulb was
lit by an HQI ballast. The fixture seemed to put out significantly
more heat than the mogul one. It also put out more light,
approximately 10-12% more.
| Bulb
|
Intensity
at approximately 6.5” from fixture
|
| Mogul
|
1550
mE/m2
|
| HQI
|
1750
mE/m2
|
The bulbs were suspended at
different distances from the top of the tank, partially to show off
the suspension mechanism, but also to try to make the light fields
even. They did surprising well, with the light levels being rather
even at the bottom of the tank.

Note that the
130 readings were in areas partially shaded by live rock.
I will note here that the tank did have some problems, which make
these numbers somewhat lower than expected. However, it is not a fair
comparison. First of all, having the lights suspended so high above
the tank is not the ideal way to get light into the tank. Most tanks
seem to have the lights between 5.5” to 8” off the water.
Secondly, the water was fairly turbid, mixed with quite a bit of
micro-bubbles from the skimmer. The tank was also bare-bottomed,
meaning that these are the deepest readings I have taken, with the
sensor a mere 1” off the bottom of the tank.
Given a more
normal 4” sandbed and lights lowered to 6” off the top, the light
levels would be more in line with Adam’s numbers above. Given these
factors, I was quite impressed with the light levels produced.
Discussion
All of these
numbers are quite interesting, but they only become meaningful when
you compare them to light levels found in the wild. So let’s go
ahead and jump in.
Reported
levels
Computed
levels

In
1968, Jerlov published a book on optical oceanography that classified
water into several types based on how light is transmitted through it.
The work is often cited and is still in use today.
The
top row represents the wavelength of light.
The
numbers underneath this are the percentage transmittance through 1
meter of this particular water type for this given wavelength.
The
final column represents the average transmittance per meter for all
the wavelengths.
The
water around most oceanic reef areas can be classified as IA or IB.
The
last step is to then compute light levels based on this computed
average transmittance…
If
we are to assume that light levels at the surface are 2000 μE/m2,
the following table can be derived:
(All readings below in μE/m2)
The
intensity levels for light do vary somewhat dramatically between the
different water types, which is not entirely unexpected.
Given
that we know so little about the collection sites from which our
corals come, we have to make a few assumptions. Many of the most
colorful Acropora, for example, are found in reef flats or at
relatively shallow depths. Knowing this, we could try to shoot for
light levels that approach the levels given here.
On the other
hand, it is also very possible that some of the pigmentation that we
see is due to too much light. Once a coral reaches P-max, more light
actually lowers the rate of photosynthesis slightly. So a safer
approach might be to look at lowering the light levels somewhat.
In other words,
shoot for whatever are the minimum levels required to keep the higher
light loving species alive and thriving. We don’t really know these
levels for coral, but we do know what works for Tridacna
clams. It would seem that shooting for levels of approximately 250 μE/m2
at the bottom of your tank should allow you to keep Tridacnas.
Thus, it seems fairly safe to say that many, if not most, other
light-loving species should survive just fine under this level of
light.
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