A selection of useful tidbits of
information for the aquarist. Readers are encouraged to send their tips to terry@advancedaquarist.com for possible
publication. For submissions that are published in Advanced Aquarist, the author will
receive a $25.00 gift certificate toward a purchase from one of our advertisers chosen by
the recipient.
Most
powerhead based protein skimmers, like the Knop, CPR BakPak,
and other similar devices using the Rio 600 or 800 RVT
powerhead don't give you control of bubble size, so you
control your skimmates dryness only by adjusting
water height (or in some cases not at all). Putting an
airline control valve on the end of the airline input
will allow you to increase the efficiency of these skimmers
significantly by adjusting the bubble size. These skimmers
can be further improved by replacing the Rio all together
with a Maxijet of comparable GPH and using the Maxijet
Turbo Venturi Kit (the equivalent of the RVT add-on for
the Rios, available for about $4.00 over the cost of the
maxijet alone). The purpose of the Turbo Venturi Kit,
like the RVT plate on the Rios is to move the venturi
air intake from the water outlet to the water inlet, causing
the bubbles to get chopped up in the impellor for a smaller
more uniform bubble size. Combining the upgrade from the
Rio with RVT included with most inexpensive hang-on skimmers
to the Maxijet with Turbo Venturi Kit, and adding an airline
control valve to further control bubble size makes these
skimmers capable of handling most skimming jobs. Tip submitted
by: Rick Dickens
For
those aquarists using a sump with an external pump, there
is a simple way to keep your return pump from "slurping"
air when your sump water level gets low. If your sump
is drilled and uses a bulkhead plumbed to the inlet of
your return pump, check the bulkhead and determine if
it is a threaded or slip fitting. Ask your local plumbing
supply house for a 90 degree "Street Elbow"
either threaded or slip - whichever applies. This elbow
will slide or screw into the inside of the bulkhead in
your sump. Simply point the elbow down to create a "siphon"
on your return pump intake. You won't have to worry about
any more slurping and you can run your sump level much
lower if you desire. Tip submitted by: James Wiseman
Following
up on the hot tip about sump return plumbing - here is
a tip to protect your pumps in the event of a sump overflow
or other flood. Before drilling your sump, cut a small
length of 2x4 timber and put this under your external
return pump(s). Put a piece of neoprene (from a mousepad)
in between the pump(s) and the wood. Put the inlet of
the return up against the sump and use a permanent marker
to mark the center of the pump inlet. This is the center
of the hole that needs to be drilled in your sump. This
simple tip will "take the guessowork" out of
your sump drilling, protect your pump in a flood by elevating
it off the floor, and it will also reduce noise due to
pump vibration. Submitted by James Wiseman
One
way of removing a fish from a tank is to take a standard
fish net, square wire frame type, remove the netting from
the frame and replace it with a plastic fish bag, like
the ones pet shops use to bag fish.The refractive index
of the plastic is about that of seawater, so the fish
don't see it, whereas they see the white green or blue
nets. For different size frames, just use differrent size
plastic bags. This is how I used to train pet shop employees
how to catch fish. Tip submitted by: Bill Wing
Regardless
of how much circulation you have in your reef tank, as corals
grow - especially table top Acroporas (see photo)
- it is important to blow the detritus out from within the
inner branches. Toward this end, it is effective to use
a turkey baster or other such implement. Even more effective
is a hand held powerhead directed at the corals inner
branches. If you use a powerhead, I strongly recommend that
it be plugged into a GFI outlet. If your outlet isnt
a GFI outlet, you can purchase at most hardware stores a
portable one. Tip submitted by: Terry Siegel
This table top coral in Terry Siegel's reef tank
requires cleaning every two or three days, due to the density of its branches. Photo:
Terry Siegel