A
selection of useful tidbits of information for the aquarist.
Readers are encouraged to send their tips to
terry@advancedaquarist.com or to post them to our Hot
Tips sticky in the Reefs.org General Reefkeeping Discussion forum for possible
publication. Next month's Hot Tip theme will be "Powerhead
Hiding Tips".
Plumbing
Tips:
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Choose
slip and clamped barb fittings over threaded fittings for
fixed plumbing whenever possible.
Use
the specified adhesive(s) for the material you're gluing
(spa flex and rigid PVC use slightly different glues, for
instance) and follow all of the recommended steps (prime,
glue, slip with a twist, hold; etc.). If you can, attend
a Home Depot workshop on home plumbing when you know they'll
be covering PVC.
Test
all of your plumbing under normal operating conditions,
preferably for several days, before subjecting any living
thing to dealing with it. I like using food-safe dyes in
fresh water to help find any leaks during these tests.
Try
not to turn too many corners in a plumbing run, and if you
must turn a corner, don't use a 90 degree elbow unless you
absolutely have to. Use spa-flex (flexible PVC hose), a
sweep (a rigid PVC pipe with a large radius bend in it),
or two 45 degree elbows... but avoid 90 degree elbows where
possible.
When
plumbing with spa-flex (flexible PVC hose), it will almost
always have a "set" that follows the curve it
got when it was wrapped around the roll during manufacturing.
Don't try to fight this "set", instead try to
use the bend it already has to your advantage.
Plan
your plumbing ahead so that you don't have to wedge it or
bend it after gluing to keep it where you want it. Once
attached, vertical runs should end up exactly where they're
needed without any additional support and longer horizontal
runs should only require the occasional strap to keep them
from bending under their weight.
Test-fit
your plumbing before gluing anything.
If
you make a mistake with slip fittings, it is possible to
drill out the pipe in the fitting and try again, but it
will almost certainly be simpler and less trouble to buy
more fittings and pipe. Test-fitting your plumbing before
gluing anything should prevent most of the "go back
and buy more" type mistakes.
On
any bulkhead that leads to or from external equipment (return
pump, skimmer, etc.) make sure that there is a ball valve
very close to the bulkhead and a union on the other side
of the ball valve. A true-union ball valve is even better.
You'll eventually need to disconnect the pump or skimmer
for repair/maintenance/replacement and this will let that
happen with little mess and no fuss.
On
the output line of return pumps, put a union and then a
ball and/or gate valve close to the pump where you can get
to them. A gate valve is better for throttling the return
flow, the ball valve is faster to turn off and less hassle
if you don't need to throttle the flow. Again, this allows
you to disconnect and repair/maintain/replace the pump without
disrupting your aquarium.
If
you have an in-stand sump, have a plan for how to get the
sump out of the stand without tearing the tank and stand
apart. Smart placement of unions is again the not-so-secret
trick. The litmus test is to complete all of your gluing
with the sump outside of the stand, fill the main tank,
and then move the sump into place. Only after the sump is
placed under the stand do you actually complete the various
assemblies (these final steps should not use any glue icon_smile.gif
). If you can get it in, it's likely you can get it out
later. Do not try to momentarily pull on or otherwise force
things to get the sump in or out of the stand. You will
probably weaken joints and cause leaks.
Do
not put restrictions in drains. Even though it's a good
idea to have a ball valve to shut down a drain for tank
maintenance, throttling a drain with a partially closed
valve is a bad idea. Something will eventually catch in
the restriction (snails are famous for this, with hair algae
the next most likely culprit) and your drain will clog.
Unless you have a second drain that can handle the full
flow, your return pump will continue to pump the contents
of the sump back up to the main tank and the main tank will
overflow.
Use
of a standpipe (Durso, Stockman, etc.) can be great for
quieting overflow boxes and their drains. Don't glue the
parts of a standpipe together as you'll want to make occasional
adjustments.
Once
water starts flowing through your plumbing it will be a
little noisy. Once the pipes accumulate a little slime inside
(a week to ten days of running salt water through them)
this will quiet down a lot. Be patient and buy some earplugs
in the meantime.
Quiet
a noisy external pump with a neoprene mousepad or two (a
good idea for any external pump actually).
--
Ross ("rabagley")
Wrap
neoprene pipe insulation around the drain pipes to quiet
the noise.
Remember
to clean the inside edges of PVC pipe where you cut it -
the little burrs etc... WILL catch debris that goes down
the drain.
Use
a gate valve instead of a ball valve - a ball valve will
eventually clog with calcium and become impossible to close.
To
clean items like an inline chiller or powerhead simply run
it in water with vinegar.
Drill
a couple of holes in the bottom of the flexible water pipe
(where the water enters the tank from the sump) to prevent
back siphon when the power goes out - even better is make
sure this is just at the normal water level and it will
break siphon automatically when the water level drops a
little.
For
long return plumbing a very slight drop is all that is required
- say 1 inch per 10 feet - you are not trying to move solids
like in normal waste plumbing just return the water as quietly
and as gently as possible
To
quiet the returm from a skimmer into a sump instead of letting
it exhaust straight into the sump use a perforated pipe
- it will not impede the water flow and will eliminate the
splashing noise.
--
"shellshocked"
Proud
sponsor of this column
If
you put a bulkhead at 4" below the top of the tank,
and then put a Tee on the outside of the tank with a cap
on top with a hole, and a hose on bottom running to your
sump, you will almost have a durso standpipe. The only part
you are missing is the elbow inside the tank pointing down.
--
"knucklehead"
I
like to use clear PVC glue and primer instead of the blue/purple
color version. Works just as well and looks alot neater
when done.
--
"tgallo"
Plan
your plumbing out 1ST. Make a list of every thing you need
then add atleast one more of every item on that list.(for
smaller parts like elbows add like 3 more). You can always
retrun items that are not used. There is nothing more aggravating
then having to run up to the store to buy a .25 plubming
fitting. Once you have all the parts you will need "dry
fit" them (no glue). Once your happy with how that
looks, start glueing from the tank down.
--
"TJG"
Valves &
Unions:
Always buy threaded valves (not slip unless you never
plan on modifying your setup) they are a couple of dollars
more each, but they can be reused and reconfigured endlessly.
Tubing
/ pipe:
I prefer to use vinyl flexible tubing as much as possible.
It is inexpensive, easy to work with and doesn't require
alot of elbows to get where you need to go.
If the tubing kinks when you're trying to make a tight
radius use several metal hose clamps to hold the tubing's
shape.
Placing the tubing in a bathtub with very hot water makes
it more flexible and easier to work with.
When dry fitting rigid PVC pipe mark the connections with
a Sharpie marker by making a line across the pipe and
fitting. When glueing the joints, rotate the pipe so the
marks align.
And
last but not least:
You can get anywhere you need to go with three (3) 45
degree elbows.
--
"jcurry@wesketch"
Always
measure twice if not three times!
Buy
a good pair of pipe cutters. These make a nice smooth cut
and no mess from hacksaws. Also, great for cutting tubing.
If
you end up using clear tubing in your plumbing, wrap with
electrical or duct tape to prevent algae growth within your
lines.
A
nifty backflow preventative for those that plumb your return
to bulkheads is to plumb your lines first above the waterline
of the tank. Then plumb back down to the bulkheads. Insert
a tee in the portion above the waterline and add a John-Guest
or other speed fitting for 1/4" tube. Run the tube
to your overflow or anywhere else that it will spray into
the tank and not outside. Now when your pumps stop your
tank won't drain to the level of the bulkheads because the
tubing will draw in air and break the siphon and the water
will stay the level of your returns or the level of your
tank, which ever is lower.
--
"Modo"
You
can maximize the efficiency of your water pump by always
full port valves and PVC fittings, increase the size of
your intake pipe, and not use a prefilter that would restrict
flow. Provide 24" or more of piping from the pump's
outlet without any fittings or valves. Annually remove your
pump's impeller and give it a good cleaning. Look for signs
your pump may be ready to fail, rattling, squeeling, and
increased heating. When installing a new pump, never overtighten
the fittings, you could damage the fitting, and the pump.
Use teflon tape on the threads, and tighten hand tight,
and then 1/4 with a wrench.
--
"hillbilly"
Use
vegetable oil as a lube to get tight-fitting flexible tubing
onto barbed fittings.
