The time has finally come to prepare your new reef biosphere for life. The first question is what you want your reef tank to look like. In the early days of reef keeping most aquarists essentially built a “live rock” wall along the back section of their tank, eventually attaching small corals or frags to that wall.

Rock Wall

An example of that technique can seen in the following photograph; it is of a beautiful reef tank setup by the late Greg Schiemer.

This picture is only of a section of the left side of a 500-gallon reef tank. However, it is easy to see how the tank was created.

Low Profile

Another technique that developed some years later I will call the low profile setup. It is the technique I preferred back in those days—around the year 2000. I came upon this technique naturally, because as many of you know, when I moved 3 reef tanks from NY into one 10-foot tank, I didn’t get any new rock and simply placed the corals that had grown large along the bottom of the tank. My hope was that the corals would have plenty of room to grow towards the light. I also hoped that eventually my reef would have a more natural look. From the next photo you can draw your own conclusions.

From the absence of coralline you can tell that the tank was newly setup. I might add that it didn’t take long before corals like Acropora sp. reached the surface of the tank.

Coral Head

Sometime later Julian Sprung setup a 40-gallon cube, within which he created in the center of that tank a coral head. This made this small reef visible from all sides, and allowed the fish to swim and graze around the head. This is clear from the photo coming next.

Julian also wanted this small reef to be representive only of a Caribbean reef, so all of the fauna and flora came from the Caribbean.

Sanjay’s Reef

When he setup his new 500-gallon reef tank Sanjay Joshi perfected what Julian started in his Caribbean reef. Following is a group of photos that demonstrate how to work this technique to perfection. In my opinion, whether in a small reef or a large reef tank this is the ideal way to setup a reef tank. Once populated it gives the fish plenty of swimming room and looks the most natural.

From these 3 photos notice that Sanjay got a vertical pillar of live rock by using a concrete block as a base to which he attached a PVC pole and then used Thorite to attach the rock to the pole and to one another.

NOTE: I have heard that Thorite is no longer manufactured. I suspect that most of the underwater two part epoxies will work as well. Whatever material used it must be thoroughly rinsed before use, and must not leech toxic chemicals into the water after a period of time.

As can be seen from this series of photos, Sanjay was able to create a very functional and beautiful, authentic looking captive reef.

This last photo is of the middle section of Sanjay’s 500-gallon reef a few years later.

There are essentially three types of filtration that the marine aquarist need be concerned with: particle, chemical, and biological. For the marine fish only or the reef tank, biological filtration is essential. Without the establishment of nitrifying bacteria toxic metabolites will reach deadly levels quickly in a marine fish or reef tank. Waste products from the fish's respiration, excrement, etc., will rapidly convert to toxic ammonia. The same process occurs in freshwater aquariums, but in marine aquariums which have a much higher pH - at least 10 times higher - a given amount of ammonia is at least 10 times more toxic. Keep in mind that the higher the pH the more available unionized ammonia, which is the toxic form of ammonia. Therefore, it is essential that the marine aquarist establish a sufficient colony of nitrifying bacteria to convert ammonia to nitrites and finally to nitrates. Nitrates are relatively nontoxic. This must be done before introducing fish into a newly setup marine aquarium. There are any number of ways to accomplish this. One way is to take filter material from an established marine aquarium and place it in the filter system of the new aquarium. Once there are nitrifying bacteria present increasing their number to handle the arrival of fish can easily be done by injecting ammonia into the tank. Even human urine will do nicely. It is then necessary for the aquarist to measure the change from ammonia to nitrites and then to nitrates, a process that usually takes several weeks. Keep in mind that these bacteria are aerobic and should be placed in filter material that is exposed to good water circulation. This is important for fish only marine aquariums. With a new reef tank the presence of conditioned live rock will have already acquired nitrifying bacteria. If the rock is dead and sterile then it will have to be made biologically alive using the same methods as described for new fish only aquariums.

Producers and Consumers of Waste

In successful reef tanks the production of waste, mostly by fish metabolism and uneaten food, is in balance with the capacity of the consumers. The filter feeders and the photosynthetic, symbiotic dinoflagelates (ZOOXANTHELLAE) that live in the hermatypic (reef building corals) corals will consume some waste, but unless there are very few fish in a large thriving reef tank waste will build up. It is therefore necessary for the reef keeper to use water changes, mechanical, and chemical means to maintain this vital balance. The buildup of waste, usually measured by aquarists as nitrates and organic phosphates, if allowed to concentrate will interfere with the ability of many invertebrates to survive, let alone grow. Phosphate (PO₄) at concentrations greater than 0.1 PPM will interfere with coral growth.

Water Changes

One way to dilute unwanted waste in the form called total organic carbon or TOC is through water changes. Many successful reef keepers change 25% of the water monthly. However, for this to be effective the new water must be pure, free of phosphates and other waste products. The new saltwater should be made up from water that has been treated by reverse osmosis and deionization. Otherwise, whatever impurities exist in one's tap water will concentrate with the addition of water to replace seawater from evaporation and during water changes. Note, when making a significant water change it is important to make sure that the new water is at the same salinity, temperature, and pH as the reef tank's water.

Protein Skimming

For a long time marine aquarists believed that protein skimmers (also called foam fractionators) were the be all and end all of waste removal. Furthermore, that they were so efficient that they could remove too much, and thereby starve certain corals. They are effective at removing phytoplankton. However, resent studies by Professor Feldman has shown, regardless of the type of skimmer used, skimmers will only remove about 20% of the unwanted TOC. I strongly suggest that you read Feldman's study published here.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/1/aafeature2/view?searchterm=feldman

I certainly do not want to give the impression that skimming is useless, only that it is but one of the useful devices available to the aquarist to maintain a balance between the producers and consumers of waste. Also, it greatly helps with gas exchange, especially at night when the production of oxygen stops with the end of photosynthesis after the lights are turned off.

Chemical Filtration

There are two forms of chemical filtration commonly used by marine aquarists, activated carbon and chemical phosphate absorbers. Activated carbon is very useful due to its ability to absorb TOC; however, it requires frequent changing - weekly --as it becomes saturated easily. There are a number of PO₄ absorbers on the market - Phosban and ROWAphos, are the two most popular - which are very effective at removing PO₄ to almost immeasurable levels. To know when to change the PO₄ media requires a PO₄ test kit that will measure to very low levels. Salifert, Hack, and ROWA Phosphate Test Kit, make kits that I know will indicate low enough to be useful; whereas, most other hobby kits are not. There very well maybe others, but these I have used successfully.

I strongly suggest that readers also read Professor Feldman's two articles on TOC published here also.

1. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/8/aafeature3
2. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/9/aafeature2

If there is a heavy bioload (fish) it is difficult to keep the nitrate level below 10-PPM. Still, many of the more delicate invertebrates do better in water that has not accumulated a concentration of nitrate. One way to keep nitrates low is to do regular water changes; how much and how often will depend on the bioload of fish, and how often and how much they are fed. The way to monitor this is with a nitrate test kit. The aquarist should recognize that there is a difference in what some nitrate test kits indicate - nitrate- nitrogen or nitrate (NO₃). If your kit measures nitrate-nitrogen to convert this to the Nitrate ion multiply your reading by 4.4. Some advanced aquarists have experimented with what is called the vodka method to reduce the nitrate and phosphate levels in their aquaria. Vodka is a carbon source, and can stimulate the growth of bacteria that will use nitrates and phosphates as food. To try this method it is vital to have a well functioning skimmer, as the bacteria can reduced the oxygen levels too much. For more information about this method check chapter 6 in The Reef Aquarium: Science, Art, and Technology vol.3 by Delbeek and Sprung. ISBN 1-883693-14-4 In my opinion, if there's one book that the beginning reef keeper should regard as the essential source it is this book.

Algal Turf Scrubbers (ATS)

It is also possible to keep the TOC levels acceptably low by a method known as Algal Turf Scrubbers (ATS). In this method sufficient alga is grown and harvested. The alga uses nitrates and phosphates as food, which is then removed from the aquarium with the harvesting of the algae. It is of course necessary to grow a lot of alga, and to also be concerned with what trace elements are removed from the system with the harvested algae. Another concern with this method is that it yellows the water; however, this can be overcome with the regular use of activated carbon. This method was initially promulgated by Walter Adey.

Check out the following link for more discussion on this and other methods for reducing TOC in reef tanks:

• http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/9/diy

Success

A successful reef tank is a thing of beauty and well worth the effort. A picture of my reef tank

There is considerable controversy regarding substrate in closed system reef tanks. The controversy ranges from substrate to no substrate, depth of substrate, size and composition of substrate, and to the utilization or utility of a false bottom -- called a plenum.

Bare Bottom

Many of us, especially in the early days of reef keeping followed what was called the "Berlin Method," which recommended the reef tank with a bare bottom. It was generally believed that corals flourished in areas where the sea water was particularly pure or pristine; that is, having a very low nutrient level. Therefore, it was essential to have a bare bottomed reef tank so that uneaten food, fish waste, etc. could not accumulate on the substrate, and furthermore, any detritus falling to the bottom could be easily vacuumed up. There is no doubt that this is a workable system, but it eliminates many animals that require a substrate in order to survive - many wrasses, sea cucumbers, and the complex flora that live in the substrate. In my opinion, bare bottom reef tanks do not look as natural as tanks with reef sand, but they work well. It is possible of course to just have a thin layer less than an inch - of sand to give one's reef tank a natural look.

Substrate

If you are going to have, as I do, substrate at a depth of at least 3-inches than the ideal is to do what I used to do with Julian Sprung. We used to go out on the Florida Keys, find a pristine area, and collect plastic pails of live coral sand. Since Julian lives on the Florida Keys this was not hard to do. If, in fact, you can bring the live sand back and put it into your reef tank within a few hours much of the flora will remain alive. In those days -- the days when Julian and I published Aquarium Frontiers - we also collected cucumbers and snails, making these animals the ideal way to start a reef tank. Unfortunately, this is not possible for most aquarists. When I setup my current reef tank in Portland Maine, which as many of you know is a 700-gallon system, bringing live sand from the Florida Keys was not possible. I used instead about 200-lbs of Caribsea's fine aragonite, which is how much I needed to achieve a depth of 6-inches. See photo!

Note: It is important to thoroughly wash new substrate before adding it to the tank. And, if you use very fine "sugar sized sand" be care how your water circulation devices are pointed; they could easily blow sand all over the tank.

There are on the market many choices of substrate; here are a few images from one of the pages of one of our sponsors http://www.globeaqua.com/caribsea_sand.html. They offer many choices.

All of these substrates will work well in a reef aquarium. It is also possible to mix different types, and all will help to maintain pH, alkalinity, and calcium concentration. However, all of these substrates quickly are covered with an organic crust, decreasing their solubility, so reef keepers cannot depend on substrate to maintain the necessary chemical parameters for pH, alkalinity, and calcium. These vital elements will have to be maintained by dosing lime water and or using a calcium reactor.

Most of these substrates are shipped sterile, but in a reef tank will quickly become colonized by various flora.

Note: I believe it's useful to regularly stir up the sand/substrate bed. For a brief time the tank will be a cloudy mess, but soon the water will clear and be more transparent than prior to the stirring. Furthermore, corals, soft and hard, will extend their polyps apparently to feed on what is released due to the stirring. Another reason to do this is that substrate without stirring can easily lump together into blocks.

Plenums

At one time there was considerable interest in plenums, but following the experimentation by Toonen and Wee published here stated, "Overall, however, the presence or absence of a plenum made little difference to the performance of sediments in processing aquarium nutrients."

Essentially, a plenum is a double bottom in the reef tank, providing a space below the sand bad that could serve as a sink for nutrients. The theory was that in the depths of the sand bed a low oxygen condition would arise, which would lead to the conversion of nitrates to nitrogen gas, thus maintaining a low nitrate level. Unfortunately, Toonen's and Wee's experiments conclusively demonstrated that this doesn't work under actual reef tank conditions.

I strongly recommend readers read both parts of these experiments at,

1. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/6/aafeature
2. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/7/aafeature

Note: "Toonen also found that "Overall death rates were roughly twice as high in aquaria with shallow sediments as in deep sediment treatments. The highest overall death rates were seen in aquaria with shallow coarse sediments over a plenum, and the lowest death rates occurred in aquaria with a sandbed composed of deep coarse sediments. The treatments that were closest to the design aquarists employ for deep sandbed, Miracle Mud and Jaubert plenum aquaria had intermediate death rates. The shallow coarse sediment design that is closest to that used in Berlin systems had one of the highest death rates, and the deep coarse sediment design for which there is currently no accepted name had the lowest overall mortality (Fig. 10). We did not test bare bottom tanks, but the data clearly suggest that the shallower the sediment, the higher the mortality rate, and you can't get much shallower than a bare bottom tank!"

Miracle Mud

Miracle mud is the most recent addition to the choices for substrate. I have never tried it myself, but there are some who make positive claims for it. However, it is expensive and from what I have read from those who have or are still using it, it is no better than an aragonite sand bed. However, it has not been studied in the experimental way that Toonen and Wee studied plenums and sand beds. In any case, for those reef keepers who want to try it while holding down costs, it can be used to inoculate a sand bed, or by using it in a sump.

Following is a picture of my reef tank showing the 6-inch deep aragonite sand bed.

Irony: Before getting to this column's subject - temperature control - I think it important to tell readers about what happened to me regarding plumbing two weeks ago, when I came home to find about 90-gallons of water on the floor by my reef tank. The water level in the display tank had fallen about one inch to the top of the overflow, and the returns where blowing some water but mostly air bubbles in the tank. When I went into the room behind the tank where the sumps are located I discovered that they were near empty. So, I immediately began looking for the leak; my biggest fear was that the display tank had sprung a leak. I couldn't find one, so next I checked the plumbing, and couldn't initially find one. Near panic, I forced myself to stop and think. It was then that I realized that I had last month in this column talked about making sure that the return(s) from the display tank had enough capacity to handle the amount of water coming from the pump returning water from the sump(s). Because my Hammerhead pump returns almost 5000-GPH I use 4 returns leaving the overflow box. It was here that I discovered the problem, and ironically it was just what I had written about. Two of the returns were clogged, but by what? I shut all the valves and took the returns apart to find out. In the elbow of two of the main returns were snail shells, with accumulated "stuff" around them, effectively blocking water flow. The result was that the remaining two exhaust pipes could not handle the incoming water from the Hammerhead pump and the display tank overflowed. Murphy got me again, and as is Murphy's signature: it was at the worst possible time. I was away for the weekend. This will not happen again because I closed the top of the stand pipes inside the overflow with tops drilled with holes small enough to prevent anything large enough to get in and block the flow. I'm also in the process of removing the return elbows: see picture!

The fortunate thing is that my tank and associated equipment is in the basement, with the result that the water did not damage the concrete floor, and because I always have at least 100-gallons of salt water in vats ready for the next water change I was able to get the system up and running normally without any loss of life.

Temperature Control

The animals we keep in our reef tanks are cold blooded, and up to a point, require that we maintain a constant temperature. Notice that I said up to a point! Having kept marine fish for over 40-years I have learned that healthy fish can tolerate a temperature swing of 5-degrees Fahrenheit over a 24-hour period. This is an important consideration when considering some of the techniques I will suggest for controlling temperature during the hot summer months. This is much less of a problem in the winter season when the desired temperature is maintained with a heater's thermostat. I'm certainly not suggesting that you take a fish in 80-degree water and throw in into 70-degree water; what I'm saying is that if the tank's water is 80-degrees in the day time, when the lights are on, it can drop 5-degrees overnight without harming the fish and invertebrates. And, if you're using fans blowing on the water's surface to cool the water via evaporation during then day, when the lights are on the temperature will drop at night when the lights are off, and the room temperature is lower. To minimize this effect I use a device to turn on the fans only when the temperature rises to a certain level. See photo!

This controller can control the heater, fans, air conditioner or chiller. The two pictures following that of the controller is of the exhaust fan and the fan that blows on the water's surface in the sump- aiding in evaporation.

Note: If you are relying on fans to cool the water, take into consideration that temperature efficiency by evaporation is increasingly limited as the ambient air is increasingly humid. The more water vapor in the ambient air the less it can take up. In cases like this, where the tank's water is getting too warm it might necessitate turning off the lights or only turning them on at night when it is cooler outside of the tank. For a more technical discussion of this, check out the article, Aquarium Heat Transfer in this issue.

Note: As can readily be seen from these photographs there is another problem that marine tank enthusiasts have to contend with: rust. I generally have to replace fans every season. I have yet to find a "rust proof" fan used in a saltwater environment that is really rust proof. If someone knows of a manufacturer that makes one please let me know.

Ideal Temperature

Although there are some who argue that the ideal temperature for a reef tank is significantly above 80F, and that temperatures below 80F cause corals to become dormant. In my reef tanks, and that of other reef aquarists that I'm familiar with, corals in captivity grow very well at temperature as low as 72F. In fact, when corals in captivity are exposed to temperatures in the eighties for a period of time there appears to be a much higher incidence of RTN (rapid tissue necrosis).

The major contributors to heat in the display tank are lights, ambient temperature, and heat from pumps, especially those that are submerged. Chillers and room air conditioners work very well, but are expensive to buy and run. Doing everything I possibly can to reduce energy consumption my reef tank still uses about $200.00 of electricity monthly. If I had to use a chiller or air condition in the basement, where the tank is located, I'm sure it would increase the electrical cost at least another $100.00 monthly. What I do is to utilize fans. I use an exhaust fan to exit hot moist air from the sump room to the outside, and I use a large fan to blow onto the sump's water surface. If it's a hot and humid day and my fans cannot keep the water temperature below 84 degrees I'll only turn the large metal halides on at night, if at all. Your corals will not die if left without illumination for a few days.

Water circulation is undoubtedly the most important parameter for the successful fish only or reef tank. Without water circulation life will not exist; it provides oxygenated water, removes toxic gases like CO₂, and transports nutrients throughout the man made biotope. Without water circulation, whether due to a power outage or pump failure, animals that need oxygen begin to die quite quickly. And, there are biochemical reasons for this.

Respiration

The vast majority of organisms that we keep in our marine tanks respire. They consume oxygen from their environment where it is transported via their circulatory system into their cells. This permits vital metabolism to occur within the cells. Also, as part of this cellular metabolism carbon dioxide (CO₂) is produced. In human beings this is called breathing. We, however, extract oxygen from the air and release carbon dioxide into the air. This is significant because the animals we keep in our marine aquariums need to extract oxygen from water which contains far less oxygen then that of air. The result of that is that our marine fish for example must take in 10 to 30 times the volume of water than terrestrial animals take in from the air to respire successfully. It is therefore vitally important that we supply our critters with water that is constantly well oxygenated through aeration and or circulation.

Gas Exchange

Essentially our goal in creating a successful marine tank is to maintain as close as possible water that is saturated with oxygen and that successfully dispels carbon dioxide. Although aeration from an air stone, or better within the chamber of a protein skimmer contributes somewhat, most of the gas exchange takes place through the water’s surface. The air-water interface is where this gas exchange takes place, and anything that interferes with this vital exchange is dangerous to the health of our organisms. However, between the air and the water is a thin film called by oceanographers a laminar layer, which interferes with said gas exchange. The thinner this film the more efficient the gas exchange.

Laminar layer

In the ocean the thickness of the laminar layer ranges from 0.002 to 0.020 centimeters, mostly determined by surface agitation, like wave action.

How do we then thin or even get close to eliminating this laminar layer or skin, so that efficient gas exchange can take place? This layer is the result of pressure between the atmosphere and the water. Diffusion of gases through this layer increases in efficiency the thinner the laminar layer. The most direct way to promote gas exchange threw this layer is to agitate the water’s surface. On the simplest level stirring the water helps significantly. The can be done with a mechanical paddle or air bubbles breaking the surface. However, there are much better ways.

To complicate matters organic molecules made up of nitrogenous organic material and simple detritus collects on the surface, further impeding necessary gas exchange. When there is no or little surface agitation this organic slick is easily visible to the naked eye, especially when looked at from below the surface. Removal of surface water also aids in the transmission of light to the corals if you are plumbing a reef tank.

Surface Agitation – Plumbing Techniques

When it comes to plumbing a marine aquarium the first goal is to move water from all sections of the tank, especially the lower section to the surface, and at the same time breaking the surface tension. The best way to achieve this is with an overflow, which is the way that most reef keepers go. Following are some pictures, and a video of overflow boxes from two of our sponsors. The one from Marine Depot, if you scroll down shows a video of one at work.

Marine Depot: http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem.aspx?idProduct=CR1511&child=CR1515

Champion Lighting: http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=22072&cat=404&page=1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zVGwdRVHU4

Whether you use a movable overflow box, or a built in inside box overflow the primary issue is capacity. In other words, can the siphon capacity handle the volume of water returned to the tank from the sump pump or pumps, whether said pump or pumps are in the sump or plumbed outside the sump? And, if you’re having the tank drilled be sure to plan for the future in terms of capacity. In a reef tank coral growth often requires greater water movement as growth becomes denser.  Another virtue of surface skimming and overflow boxes is that in the event of a power outage the water level will not drop lower than the top of the overflow.

Caution: In the event of a power failure make sure that there is enough room in the sump for water that will flow into the sump from the display tank. Also, make sure that when the power returns an external overflow box is able to restart siphoning; otherwise the water from the sump will overflow the display tank. This is generally caused by air bubbles getting into the siphons. In fact, this can happen without a power outage. Many external overflow boxes have a nipple for sucking air out of the siphon chamber, and by attaching a small power head to that nipple air bubbles can be kept out of the siphon area. If the outside box uses siphon tubes be sure to check them regularly for air pockets. Remember Murphy’s law: whatever can go wrong will, and at the worst time.

Note: If you have a choice, choose an external pump, because it will transfer less heat into the tank water, and choose one that is energy efficient. On my 700-gallon reef tank I used in the past a Jacuzzi pump, which drew 10-amps, and when I switched to a Reeflo HammerHead pump the water temperature dropped 2 degrees-F, and my electric bill dropped almost $50.00 monthly. The HammerHead moved as much water, but drew only 3-amps – about 350-watts.

The Sump

What kind of sump you utilize is dependent on a number of factors: available space and size. Sumps can be purchased ready-made, or for the more adventurous they can be made. Because I have a pump room located behind the display tank I like to use Rubbermaid stock tanks. They are made of fiberglass, are quite strong, and easy to drill. They also come in sizes ranging from 50 to 300-gallons. See following picture:

In this setup I have two 150-gallon Rubbermaid stock tanks plumbed together with a 2-inch PVC pipe. Using a valve I can isolate the back sump, when I want to use it as a quarantine tank. As you can also see, you can place skimmers, heaters, carbon filters, and calcium reactors in these stock tanks.

Returns to Tank

It should be obvious by now that water circulation is essential; without it, after a relatively short time period – hours – life in your tank will begin to die. How water is returned to the display tank from the sump has two goals: one is to simply get water from the sump back into the display tank, the second is to supply circulation to all areas of the display tank. This can be done simply, or in a more complex way. My way is to utilize devices made by Ocean Motions which have return lines that alternate and heads that rotate creating random water circulation patterns in the display tank. See the following picture:

Caution: If you look carefully at the above picture you will notice that the 4 Ocean Motion returns are lower in the water than the top of the built in overflow box. In the event of a power failure or the failure of the return pump the returns will become siphons with the result that the water will return to the sump from the depth of the returns, which can overflow a sump that doesn’t have enough holding capacity. Furthermore, some aquarists think by using a check valve it will prevent water from siphoning back into the sump, which is what it is designed to do. Check valves will do this quite well when new; however, they tend to clog up after some months of use in seawater and leak. If you need to depend on one than plumb it surrounded by true union valves so that it can be removed for cleaning in a weak acid bath periodically. Incidentally, this is true of all valves; in seawater valves tend to freeze up with deposits of calcium. I make it a practice of turning them off and on vigorously at least once a month.

Defeating Murphy

Backup systems are important, even essential. I always have a second backup pump; in this case a second HammerHead already plumbed and ready to go if necessary. A pair of Haywood true union valves allow me to change pumps in minutes. Also, I never want to rely on one pump, and in this system the main circulation pump. I also use two internal water pumps made by Vortech. And, in the event of a power outage I have 6 battery operated air pumps manufactured by Pennplax that are programmed to turn on if the electrical power goes out.

Notice how the return HammerHead pump is surrounded by true union valves, which allows me to remove the said pump in a matter of minutes. I keep a spare pump already plumbed ready to replace a failed pump. Using true union valves like these shown can also be used to remove and clean a check valve.

Vortech Pumps

I like Vortech pumps because they are unobtrusive and move a lot of water. They can be placed low in the display tank, without worry about siphoning water out of the tank, and because their motor is outside of the tank they will not heat the water. They also come with a battery backup which is useful in the event of a power failure. Advanced Aquarist has reviewed this product twice, see:

1. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/5/review
2. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/11/review2

Tip

You can notice from the plumbing setup in my reef that I use flexible PVC. This allows me to avoid elbows whenever possible. Elbows cause back pressure, reducing flow. Any questions, just post them following this column!

In your quest to have a fish only or preferably a reef tank one must consider first the glass cage or tank. I say that establishing a reef tank is preferable to a fish only tank because in my experience fish are healthier in reef tanks than in fish only tanks; also, the diversity of marine life in a reef tank is potentially much greater. In this beginning column I will discuss the tank, where and how to locate it.

Glass or Acrylic cage

Following are various shapes that are available to aquarists today, and any of these tanks can be built into a wall or placed on a stand. Whether you build the stand or build the tank into a wall treatment or have some professional build it for you there are several things to keep in mind:

If the tank is 100-gallons or more it is essential to remember that seawater is very heavy. At about 8-pounds/gallon a hundred gallon tank's seawater alone weighs over 800-pounds. If the tank is placed on a concrete pad in the basement this is not a problem, but if is located on a wood floor it is important to have the tank's weight distributed evenly across the floor joists and not run with the floor joists. The idea is to have the weight distributed diagonally across the joists. If that is not possible then it is wise to place a plate with the direction of the joists which are spaced 16-inches center to center from one another. See diagram:

There are three other things to keep in mind concerning location and tank placement:

• Whatever the tank is placed on it is very important the tank stand be level. If the tank is not level excessive pressure develops on the tank seams, whether the tank is glass or acrylic, and could eventually result in a leak or even the tank breaking apart.
• However careful the aquarist is, water will sooner or later get on the flooring, whatever the flooring is made of, and thereby damage the it. Here again it is important to plan for the future and to pay respect to Murphy's law: whatever can go wrong will and at the worst time.
• Something that marine aquarists often forget: saltwater is very corrosive. It will slowly destroy many materials. It will rust most metals, rot paint and sheet rock due to evaporation. One solution is to prepare for this in advance. One way is to paint the area around the tank with a marine based epoxy paint, especially inside of a holding cabinet. If the tank is set in a wall, where the sump is located behind the tank; the sump room's walls should be lined with a none corrosive material or at least painted with marine epoxy paint. It is also important to use a ventilation fan if at all possible that will vent the salty air to the outside of the house or apartment. An exhaust fan will also help to dissipate the heat generated by the lighting equipment. This is especially true for reef tank setups.

Tank Shapes

Glass or Acrylic?

If you are preparing to have a reef tank than I strongly recommend that you only consider glass. It is certainly true that glass, compared to acrylic, is much heavier and difficult to drill. And, unless you use starfire glass, it gives the water a feint greenish color in appearance. HOWEVER, coralline algae readily grows on acrylic - it will also grow on glass, starfire or regular glass - and is very, very difficult to scrape off without scratching the plastic, especially in a large deep tank. In my experience, it is virtually impossible to avoid scratching an acrylic tank while removing this calcareous algae. It is possible to scratch a glass tank, but glass is much harder and metal blades can be used to scrape the coralline off of the glass viewing pane without scratching it, not so with acrylic.

The Sump

It is certainly possible to have a successful reef or fish only tank without a sump, but it is harder. It is harder because an organic skin will form on the surface of the tank's water preventing some light (protons) from reaching the photosynthetic corals, and the over flow or corner box continuously skims water from the surface where it exits to the sump, whether under the tank, a back compartment, or in the room behind the tank. Aside from the sump's ability to add volume to the system, it is an ideal place to locate equipment that if in the display tank would detract from the natural beauty of the tank. Who wants to see heaters, protein skimmers, refrigeration equipment, calcium reactors, and dosing equipment in or near the display tank. Furthermore, the more volume of water the less affected by small changes to the system, but keep in mind that the larger the system the greater the use of electricity and ultimately the greater cost to the aquarist. Reef tanks are very energy dependant and this is an issue that the aquarist needs to consider carefully.

Though I have always preferred large man made ecosystems it is certainly possible to have a successful small reef. In fact, one can purchase a complete 10 to 30-gallon setup from various companies. These setups contain everything but the animals.

Following are pictures of my setup, with its two plumbed together 150-gallon Rubbermaid sumps. These Rubbermaid sumps - called stock tanks - come in sizes from 50 to 300-gallons. They make ideal sumps because they are nontoxic, strong and are easy to drill for bulkheads for incoming and outgoing plumbing to the display tank.

The Nano Reef

Here is the 10-gallon nano reef of Smontanus.

You can read about this nano setup in Advanced Aquarist at, http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/5/aquarium

Another Nano reef (only 5-gallons):

The link here is, http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/6/aquarium

Two Tips

If you're setting up a reef tank consider the depth of your tank. Light is especially important to many desirable corals; in particular the colorful acropora. Light loses intensity as it penetrates the water column; therefore, a shallow reef tank is easier and more economical to light. More about this when we deal specifically with light.

When drilling your tank to connect your display tank to its sump be sure to have the bulk head holes big enough to handle future circulation needs. Also, be sure that your sump will not overflow should there be a power outage. With a power outage or a circulation pump failure, the water level in the display tank will drop to the top of the overflow or the location of the return pipes. The return pipes in such a case will change from returns to siphons. Before attempting to put live rock or animals in the new reef tank be sure to thoroughly test the tank by filling it with water and then shut off the return pump. In other words, simulate a power outage or pump failure.

Finally, don't be in a hurry!

A selection of useful tidbits of information and tricks for the marine aquarist submitted by Advanced Aquarist's readership. Readers are encouraged to post them to our Hot Tips sticky in the Reefs.org General Reefkeeping Discussion forum or send their tips to terry@advancedaquarist.com for possible publication. This month's Hot Tip theme is "Best Innovations in 2007 and 2008?" Please head over to our discussion forum and post your thoughts!

How do you choose a LFS?

A selection of useful tidbits of information and tricks for the marine aquarist submitted by Advanced Aquarist's readership. Readers are encouraged to post them to our Hot Tips sticky in the Reefs.org General Reefkeeping Discussion forum or send their tips to terry@advancedaquarist.com for possible publication. This month's Hot Tip theme is "Best Innovations in 2007 and 2008?" Please head over to our discussion forum and post your thoughts!

How do you choose a LFS?

A selection of useful tidbits of information and tricks for the marine aquarist submitted by Advanced Aquarist's readership. Readers are encouraged to post them to our Hot Tips sticky in the Reefs.org General Reefkeeping Discussion forum or send their tips to terry@advancedaquarist.com for possible publication. This month's Hot Tip theme is "How do you choose a LFS?" Please head over to our discussion forum and post your thoughts!

Have you ever attempted to breed any of your livestock? If so what and how?

A selection of useful tidbits of information and tricks for the marine aquarist submitted by Advanced Aquarist's readership. Readers are encouraged to post them to our Hot Tips sticky in the Reefs.org General Reefkeeping Discussion forum or send their tips to terry@advancedaquarist.com for possible publication. This month's Hot Tip theme is "Have you ever attempted to breed any of your livestock? If so what and how?" Please head over to our discussion forum and post your thoughts!

A selection of useful tidbits of information and tricks for the marine aquarist submitted by Advanced Aquarist's readership. Readers are encouraged to post them to our Hot Tips sticky in the Reefs.org General Reefkeeping Discussion forum or send their tips to terry@advancedaquarist.com for possible publication. This month's Hot Tip theme is "Christmas Wishlist and Why You Want and/or Need It."

Hot Tips: Tips for Growing or Making your Own Tank Food

A selection of useful tidbits of information and tricks for the marine aquarist submitted by Advanced Aquarist's readership. Readers are encouraged to post them to our Hot Tips sticky in the Reefs.org General Reefkeeping Discussion forum or send their tips to terry@advancedaquarist.com for possible publication. This month's Hot Tip theme is "Tips for on growing or making your own tank food."

Hot Tips: Tips on Livestock and Hardware Purchases

A selection of useful tidbits of information and tricks for the marine aquarist submitted by Advanced Aquarist's readership. Readers are encouraged to post them to our Hot Tips sticky in the Reefs.org General Reefkeeping Discussion forum or send their tips to terry@advancedaquarist.com for possible publication. This month's Hot Tip theme is "Tips for Livestock/Hardware Buying."

Hot Tips: Tips for would-be in-wall tank builders

A selection of useful tidbits of information and tricks for the marine aquarist submitted by Advanced Aquarist's readership. Readers are encouraged to post them to our Hot Tips sticky in the Reefs.org General Reefkeeping Discussion forum or send their tips to terry@advancedaquarist.com for possible publication. This month's Hot Tip theme is "Tips for would-be in-wall tank builders."

Hot Tips: How do you control your nitrates and phosphates?

A selection of useful tidbits of information and tricks for the marine aquarist submitted by Advanced Aquarist's readership. Readers are encouraged to post them to our Hot Tips sticky in the Reefs.org General Reefkeeping Discussion forum or send their tips to terry@advancedaquarist.com for possible publication. This month's Hot Tip theme is "How do you control your nitrates and phosphates?".

Hot Tips: How do you handle your tank temperature in the summer?